Cages sold in pet stores are too small for a rabbit to be healthy and happy. A rabbit should have an enclosure that can comfortably fit their large litter box, food and water dishes, hidey hut/box, toys, etc, and still have room for them to run around. Different rabbits will have different space requirements based on their personality, temperament and energy levels. For instance, some rabbits are happy in a large pen with ample free roaming time, and some need to be offered 24/7 free roaming as they are highly active. We strongly recommend having an idea of what kind of housing you would like to use, but speaking directly with the rescue or shelter first about the specific needs of the rabbit before purchasing any supplies. This ensures you are creating the right housing for the rabbit you wish to adopt.
WHAT MAKES A GOOD RABBIT HOUSE?
- Smooth floor to prevent injury or wear to furry feet – NO wire bottoms!
- A door wide enough to allow a large litterbox and easy cleaning.
- At least six times the size of your rabbit with sufficient height to accommodate your rabbit being able to stand up on their hind legs.
The more time you plan to have the bun stay in their enclosure, the bigger the it should be. We recommend as much “out” time as possible (at LEAST six hours per day) and regular play and interaction with you every day for the rabbit’s health and happiness. Play areas must be bun-proofed: safe from electrical cords, houseplants, and other hazards to the rabbit and with possessions you’d like to keep intact out of reach. Don’t forget plenty of bun-safe toys.
HOUSING IDEAS
Neat Idea Cube Condos – These are made from wire panels assembled to the needs of your rabbit. Not only can you customize your rabbit’s home, but its cost effective. You can find “how-to” instructions and information on NIC condos under the “Further Reading” section below. In Canada, they are sold under brand names Closetmaid and Rubbermaid. For less than the cost of a tiny cage from the store, you can build a palace for your rabbits to lounge and play in. They can be found in many stores such as Costco, Canadian Tire, Amazon, grocery stores etc..
Exercise Pens (Xpens) – a series of metal fencing panels connected by hinges. This allows your rabbit to have more space while still confined to a safe area when you aren’t around. The exercise pens are versatile, allowing you to shape a circle, divide a room in half for two rabbits to share, or set up a rabbit corner. When rabbit’s out, the pen can be used to protect a zone you want to keep off limits. You can also easily take it to other people’s houses for bunny sitting. Make sure you get one that is high enough as rabbits can jump at least 1.5 times their own height.
Free Run – Most altered rabbits become neat enough with their litterbox to be out loose all day with a designated litterbox corner. This is where rabbit proofing is very important. Remember that some rabbits climb onto chairs, sofas and tables and can snack on fruit and plants you thought were safe. Even plants out of reach can still drop leaves. Anything toxic should be in a room that your rabbit never goes to, or better yet, opt for only safe plants/flowers. Protect cords and wires. Get down on their level to see what they could get into and if they could hurt themselves on anything. Free run is very rewarding for you and your rabbit but if this is your goal, work up to it one room at a time to make sure you can accomplish this safely.
INDOORS ONLY PLEASE
Rabbit Rescue advocates that all pet rabbits be kept indoors. Rabbits are very social creatures that enjoy the interaction, stimulation and comforts of living “with the family”. Outdoor rabbits miss out on this very critical part of a healthy and happy lifestyle, but there are many other reasons why a rabbit should always be housed indoors.
Many believe an outdoor hutch will be suitable for their rabbit however, we have heard countless tragic stories of pet rabbits who have met their demise while being housed outside. The most immediate hazard to an outdoor rabbit is attack by predators. These include attacks by dogs, cats, raccoons, and coyotes; and more rarely, owls, hawks, opossums, and weasels. A determined predator can bend or break wire and more agile ones can open cage doors. Many people are surprised to discover that their hutched rabbit has died during the night. “I don’t understand – the hutch wasn’t even unlocked, and the rabbit didn’t have a mark on him. What happened?” With their acute vision, hearing, and smell, a rabbit can sense the presence of a predator a yard away and this can trigger an extreme reaction; a panic attack during which the rabbit runs wildly back and forth, twists, and thrashes. A rabbit in this state can break their own back or die from a heart attack or shock. A survivor may be permanently disabled or develop infection from bite or claw wounds.
Another outdoor risk to consider is the presence of poisonous plants and potentially deadly fertilizers and pesticides used on the lawn or yard. Living outdoors can also be risky for physically compromised rabbits. Any rabbit unable to completely clean their fur of urine or feces is vulnerable to fly strike, a life-threatening condition. We have also seen rabbits who were quite healthy (not disabled) getting fly strike. Other insects can also pose a threat to an outdoor rabbit. Fleas, if allowed to infest the backyard, may subject a rabbit to flea anemia. In some areas, myxomatosis, a deadly virus, may be transmitted to domestic rabbits by biting insects.
Since June 2022, the presence of RHDV in Ontario has made it unsafe to bring your rabbits outside. Please read our page on RHDV. RHDV is a fatal disease, to where there is no cure. While your rabbit should be vaccinated against RHDV, there is still a risk in having them outside.
Temperature is a huge problem in housing rabbits outdoors. In colder months, their water will freeze. Rabbits will get frostbite on their delicate ears, and can freeze to death despite extra ‘straw’ and items to keep them warm. And if they survive, at what cost has it been? What sort of life if it huddling to stay warm. In the heat, rabbits can suffer even more. Rabbits have no way to cool themselves effectively and can die in their hutches outside from high temperatures.
Perhaps the most underrated danger to an outdoor-only rabbit is inattention from their caretaker. The rabbit may be fed, watered, and sheltered, but infrequent observation and handling may cause health problems to go unnoticed until too late.
Housing your rabbit outdoors compromises quality of life. Living confined to a hutch is boring, depressing, and stressful for a sensitive creature such as a rabbit. By domesticating them, we have deprived them of whatever natural ability they had for survival on their own. Rabbits are just as social and loving as a cat or dog, and you would never consider housing them outside. A rabbit is no different!
Rabbits crave the same socialization, stimulation and love that other house pets do, and by robbing them of these necessities you are also robbing yourself of the chance to have a loving and rewarding relationship with your bunny. Rabbits make wonderful house pets. Keep them indoors, make them a part of your family, and enjoy their quirky personalities, their silly antics and their unconditional love.
Further Reading:
http://www.therabbithouse.com/indoor/rabbit-cages-cubes.asp
https://binkybunny.com/forums/topic/nic-grid-housing/
https://rabbit.org/care/habitat/pens-the-modern-housing-preference/
http://breyfamily.net/bunnycage.html